Growing up, my dad didn’t believe in the cultural tradition of quinceañeras. “You’re not a woman at 15,” he would say. He rejected the elaborate, often white, gowns and the concept of chambelanes and damas. He believed quinceañeras were too comparable to weddings. Of course, not being able to partake in this rite of passage made me want one even more. When I would act out, I would even jokingly tell my parents it was “porque no me dieron una quinceañera.”
In the last few years, a growing number of Latinas have thrown themselves doble quinceañeras to ring in their 30th birthdays. As someone who loves when women celebrate themselves and prioritize their desires — especially as we feel the familial and societal pressure to get married or start a family — I saw myself following in their footsteps.
But as my 30th birthday approached, I decided on something different. Instead of throwing a lavish party, I gifted myself a trip back to la madre patria — to Perú.
Each year, I welcome a new year of life with a few celebrations: an intimate dinner with family and a party with friends. I’ve hosted plenty of birthday gatherings over the years, so as 30 approached, I decided a doble quince was not for me.
My initial idea was to plan a massive trip with friends and family to Perú, but then reality set in: Leaving the country is not feasible or possible for everyone I love. Even though I no longer wanted a big party, I still contemplated an elaborate trip, but I felt called to do something more intimate, just as I did on my 21st when I spent my birthday in la amazona peruana, surrounded by the jungle and the Amazon River, and with limited wi-fi connection. Something was pushing me to celebrate in a similar way, in nature with people who love me. I invited two people I’m extremely close to: my homegirl and business partner, Mala Muñoz, and my primo hermano Jonathan. Together, we set off to do El Camino Inca, the trail to Machu Picchu.
Before we ventured into Cusco, I visited my family in Lima. I’m of Peruvian and Mexican descent, but my connection to Peru differs for a few reasons. I have dual citizenship; I lived there when I was 20; and I still have family there. When I visited with my family, I received the same question repeatedly, “Your husband lets you travel alone?” While they were partially joking, I know there are unspoken societal rules for married women, especially if you’re Latina.
My partner and I married in December 2022 and have a nontraditional view of marriage. For various reasons, he couldn’t make the trip with me, but he still encouraged me to go. These questions reaffirmed why it was so important that I made this trip happen. I am living my life for myself. I am celebrating myself. I would rather create a core memory than worry about the judgment of others.
After spending a few days in Lima, we traveled to Cusco, situated in the Andes and recognized as the capital of the Incan Empire. I sipped on maté de coca to avoid soroche or altitude sickness. I walked through the beautiful streets of Cusco and reflected on the past decade. The last time I visited Cusco was in 2014 — I was a heartbroken mess, and I traveled throughout Perú to heal myself. This time, I was in Cusco for different reasons — to welcome a new decade with grounding energy through the guidance of my ancestors.
I visited the incredible Valle Sagrado, basking in the beauty and intellect of my people. I learned a decolonial and people’s history of the region, something I had not encountered throughout my previous travels. I knew I was meant to learn this history, especially at this time in my life. After acclimating for a few days and losing sense of time, my 30th birthday finally arrived.
My alarm rang at 2:30 a.m., and Mala and my primo greeted me by shouting “Happy Birthday.” An hour later, we hopped into a white tour van and drove the hour and a half to Ollantaytambo, a city in the Valle Sagrado. This is also where we took the train to our first stop. Filled with excitement but also some altitude sickness, a part of me was questioning my choices: Did I really sign up for an eight-mile hike, while carrying all my belongings in a backpack?
Once on the train, the excitement took over. I’m really doing this. Waves of pride crashed over me. I was spending my birthday exactly how I wanted to — by taking on El Camino Inca. The train stopped in the middle of the route, and a crew member instructed us to get off. We had reached Chachabamba, the beginning of our journey. El Camino Inca is a nearly 27-mile trek that ends at Machu Picchu. I opted for the shorter, but still challenging, route.
At 6:30 a.m., our trek finally began. The first two and a half hours were the most difficult. Together, we climbed countless steps, as we gasped for air. Not only did I have to focus on not falling or losing my footing, but I also had to be mindful of my breath. As you’re climbing the Camino Inca, the region’s unique cloud forest engulfs you. The sun peaks through, el Río Urumbamba runs below you, and the clouds feel within reach. It almost feels unreal. How can la pachamama, Mother Earth, be this stunning?
I can’t tell you how many steps we climbed, but it felt daunting at times. The Camino reveals you to yourself. With each step, I felt gratitude. I felt thankful for my supportive family, this trip, and my travel partners. I especially felt appreciation for my body. After surviving so much, she was carrying me through this trek with strength.
Seven hours of climbing and hiking later, we reached Inti Punku, or the Sun Gate, which provides the first view of Machu Picchu. This is the first payoff for all the hours of climbing, but when we arrived, clouds covered her. It started to rain. We put on our rain jackets, lamented with laughter but kept going. We kept walking toward Machu Picchu and prayed the clouds would part.
Nearly eight hours after our trek began, with sore feet and aching backs, we arrived at one of the seven wonders of the world. The sky was still overcast but the clouds finally parted. I stood, alongside my two companions, overlooking this sacred city and marveled at what we just did together. We made it.
With this birthday trip, I sought movement, a challenge, and ancestral medicine. Perú has become my place for breakthroughs and healing. I welcomed this new decade of life recharged in my ancestral land, ready to face what the universe has to offer.
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