The Ordinary’s New Serum Ended My Botox Obsession — & It’s Cheaper

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I have a confession to make. While I extol the virtues of wearing SPF on a daily basis (yes, even in the winter), I haven’t always been so diligent about protecting my skin from the sun. These days, “cleanse, moisturize, sunscreen” is my skincare mantra but I’m beginning to notice the effects of all those years I spent (mostly inadvertently) collecting rays. 

Besides a few broken capillaries around my nose, most of my sun damage — exacerbated by a nasty case of accidental forehead sunburn in a surprisingly hot Cyprus last October — presents as fine lines. Don’t get me wrong. Skin texture is entirely normal and lines and wrinkles are a usual part of aging. But if some of that texture is at least partly self-inflicted, is there a way to reverse it?

You’re probably shouting “Botox!” at your screen, and while the skin-smoothing injectable has its merits (R29 is a totally judgement-free zone), I’m taking a break following a recent bad experience where my brows and eyelids drooped significantly. What’s more, my forehead was almost too smooth. I like to see some skin texture — that’s the key to natural-looking tweakments — and so I broke up with the stuff. 

It seems I’m not the only one. Lots of my beauty editor peers are giving up expensive line-smoothing injections, opting instead for deeply hydrating skincare to plump their skin sans needles. Most notably, serums and moisturizers with one key ingredient: growth factors or GF.  

What is GF — or growth factors — and what are the skincare benefits?

Growth factors are a type of peptide, or protein, known to stimulate skin cell growth over time. They are often used to heal wounds but skincare brands have since found another use for them, namely boosting collagen and elastin — two things that are found naturally in our skin, giving it structure and suppleness. Collagen and elastin deplete as we age but sun exposure and other environmental aggressors like pollution can speed up the process, resulting in fine lines and skin laxity. 

Growth factors are a relatively new innovation in the skincare world, so products that enlist them are typically eye-wateringly expensive. But you can always count on The Ordinary to democratize a buzzy ingredient. This week it launched GF 15% Solution, $15.50, a serum boasting three types of plant-based growth factors.

The Ordinary GF 15% Solution, $15.50

What are epidermal growth factors?

First up, EGF or epidermal growth factors. In a previous Refinery29 article, aesthetics practitioner Dr. Ioannis Liakas told us that epidermal growth factors promote cell growth on the epidermis, or outer layer of the skin, resulting in faster healing and better repair. “They are known to be gentler on the skin than retinols as they do not have the same flaking effects,” said Dr. Liakas. He added, “[Epidermal growth factors] can be used in the morning and evening, but [using them] in the evening will help to achieve optimal effects because this is when cellular turnover is at its highest healing peak.” 

Besides epidermal growth factors, The Ordinary’s serum also features IGF or insulin-like growth factors, which research shows regenerate and repair damaged cells. Lastly, the serum boasts TGF or transforming growth factors. Studies suggest these can stimulate collagen production and reduce inflammation or redness. 

Is The Ordinary’s GF 15% Solution any good?

With science out of the way, this serum is The Ordinary’s first foray into growth factors. Intrigued, I incorporated it into my skincare routine as soon as I received it in November, layering it underneath a simple moisturizer after cleansing in the evening, and the same in the morning — always following with sunscreen. 

I have to get one gripe out of the way first: The texture is watery — more akin to a toner than any serum I’m used to — but that means it absorbs quickly and without leaving behind any tackiness. As such, I wouldn’t recommend putting the dropper to your face à la TikTok’s skincare enthusiasts; the serum will just roll off. Instead, I like to squeeze a pipette-full into the palm of my hand and pat it gently into my skin.

I used the serum every day for over a month and I noticed a difference in my skin texture almost immediately. It appeared smoother and more taut, as though I’d applied a blurring makeup primer. I spotted the biggest change in the fine lines across my forehead after three weeks, especially when wearing makeup; it was like they’d been ironed out. Impressive.

Don’t just take my word for it, though. Refinery29 senior writer Karina Hoshikawa is equally enamored with the product: “Growth factors in skincare have been quietly trending for quite some time now, and I’ll admit that they sounded a bit too good to be true — also, very expensive,” she says. “But because I will happily try anything The Ordinary releases, I eagerly began testing its new GF 15% Solution as soon as I got an early bottle during the brand’s activation at Miami’s Art Basel in early December.”

Karina continues: “Thanks to good genes and regular sunscreen use, I still get asked for ID every time I buy wine (I’m 31), but I definitely want to keep my skin looking as healthy as possible for as long as possible. I started getting Botox this year, and have to say that I’m a novice when it comes to growth factors in my routine. That said, I was excited to incorporate GF 15% Solution as irregular tone and texture are my two primary skincare concerns. Right off the bat, I loved the lightweight texture of the serum; my skin readily drank it up. It felt super gentle on my skin and played well with my morning and nighttime routine.”

Within two weeks of twice-daily use, Karina felt like her chronically dehydrated skin looked and felt plumper and more even overall. “I don’t really have wrinkles or fine lines but the rough texture I have on my forehead and cheeks was visibly diminished — almost as if they’d been filled in ever so slightly,” she says. “I was honestly blown away by the early results and can’t wait to see what my skin looks like after finishing my first bottle.” The firming and lifting effects reported in the brand’s clinical trials remain to be seen, adds Karina. “But if I continue to see improvement in my overall skin health and appearance, I’ll be extremely satisfied with the results.” 

If you’re sold, there are a couple more things you should know. While this didn’t irritate mine or Karina’s skin in any way, The Ordinary advises against using it in the same skincare routine as vitamin C and exfoliating acids like glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids. These potent ingredients are said to break down the growth factors, potentially rendering them ineffective. In other words, it’s money down the drain. 

When it comes to things like fine lines, prevention is infinitely better than cure. I really enjoyed using this serum but investing in a high factor, broad spectrum sunscreen that protects against UVA (rays responsible for premature aging and skin cancer) and UVB (which causes sunburn) is also key. 

Lastly, Karina points out that growth factors tend to be synonymous with triple-digit prices. “The Ordinary’s innovative formula retails for $15.50, so it’s truly a game-changer in democratizing cutting-edge skincare for all,” she says — and I agree. Having recently tried a $148 skin-smoothing serum which promised similar results, I can firmly say that GF 15% Solution is just as effective (especially when teamed with sunscreen) — and a snip of the price, too.

This story was originally published on Refinery29 UK.

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This article was originally published on refinery29.com.