Serious Question: Is Nail Polish Dead?

Each morning, as I sit on the London Underground and am forced to lift my eyes away from the comfort of my phone screen (the service isn’t great down there), I find myself staring at everyone’s hands. I spy a set of perfectly shiny gel nails here and a bare-nailed hand there, but rarely do I spy fingernails with “normal” nail polish on them.

You know the type I’m talking about: The regular polish that we all grew up with; the type that chips easily and takes an age to dry between coats. I feel like I can tell the difference between a gel manicure and a regular nail polish manicure upon quick inspection, and my morning commutes have left me with just one question: Where did all the normal nail polish go?

With this question already rattling around in my head, I was startled during a chance encounter at Townhouse recently, when the lady next to me struck up a conversation. She wanted to look at my nails, which were prepped and layered with a coat of builder gel (BIAB), ready for nail art, and we discussed the design I was opting for. When I asked what she was getting, she said, “Ah, I’m old-fashioned. I’m just getting normal nail polish.”

“Old fashioned?” I repeated, incredulously. “You think normal nail polish is old-fashioned?”

“Well, that’s what my niece tells me.” 

Is anyone using regular nail polish anymore?

At the ripe old age of 27, I hesitate to begin a sentence with “back in my day” but back in my day, normal nail polish (which I’ll refer to as “OG polish”) reigned supreme. At least it did in my circle of friends and family. Every so often my mom would let me raid the drugstore for a new (usually pink and sparkly) OG polish. I wasn’t allowed to wear makeup back then, so you could say that cheap OG polish was my gateway drug to the beautysphere. I loved the joy that it brought me (I maintain that it’s impossible to have sparkly nails and not feel joy whenever you see them). My mom would paint my nails for me and I’d paint hers. It felt special.

We don’t do that anymore. If we have anything on our nails, we’ve had a professional do it, probably with gel. Eager to know if this eschewing of OG polish is unique to me and my circle, I reached out to Sophia Green of Greenhouse Studio, a salon that specializes in detailed nail art. “Until recently, I didn’t realize people were still using normal nail polish,” she confessed to me. “I rarely see it in the salon.” Her clients tend to come in with — and ask for — gels or nail extensions. 

A quick scour of the internet shows much of the same attitude. One nail technician on Threads claims that “99%” of her clients ask for gel polish over OG polish. She goes so far as to say that you should buy your own OG polishes and take them with you to the salon if you want a traditional manicure, as salons might not carry a wide range of colors anymore. Other users and technicians I spoke to agree, saying it makes no sense for them to stock regular polish if nobody wants it, as it just becomes thick and gloopy over time.

Over on Reddit, a user notes that it’s “interesting” how gel polish is now de rigueur. “Most salons won’t offer nice regular polishes or [create] designs with [them] anymore. But if we look back, not so long ago regular polish was the norm and you [could] still get french tips or simple drawings without hesitation, right?” The replies largely agree, with some even saying that they feel judged when opting for OG polish. “I got shamed when I chose a regular polish for a pedicure even after explaining I had a gel allergy,” wrote one user. Another user, who prefers using OG polish on their toes, said, “I made the mistake of telling this to a friend of a friend, since she was a nail tech, and she told me I was a liar and became quite angry about the entire thing.”

Despite plenty of anecdotal evidence, the statistics to back up this supposed OG polish purge are sparse. The global gel nail market was valued at $1.8 billion in 2023 but one report suggests that gels make up just 40% of the overall nail polish market share. Forty percent is a lot, but it’s far from being the majority.

I asked Gaëlle Lebrat Personnaz, the founder of nail polish brand Manucurist, to weigh in. “Normal nail polish has seen some market decline in comparison to gel and other advanced long-wear polishes,” Personnaz says. But she adds that traditional polish formulas remain in demand for their versatility, convenience, affordability and ease of use. Her own brand’s data shows that around 48% of US consumers still buy regular polishes.

When is regular nail polish most useful?

Clearly, people are still using classic nail polish. “I’ve definitely seen an increase in the use of normal nail polish recently,” says Green, who adds that she was shocked when she first realized this. She maintains that her clients mostly opt for gel, but she’s noticed a shift among the general population when she works at events outside of her salon. She thinks this is because people just can’t afford gel manicures anymore.

This is unsurprising considering that, in New York, a gel manicure can set you back up to $100. You can expect further charges for the likes of BIAB or the removal of your old set. Want nail art? Well, you may have to sell a kidney.

Obviously, these prices are justified; the beauty sector struggled amid the COVID-19 pandemic and nails are like little canvases, ripe for what I consider to be real art. But one thing is clear: The cost of living is at a high. With this in mind, it would be short-sighted to declare OG polish dead. Would it die out if money were no object? Perhaps, but more likely not.

Claire Stark, a manicurist who specializes in Bio Sculpture and decorates the fingernails of many of my editor friends, says she’s seen a huge increase in regular nail polish use since the pandemic. “It’s an at-home and user-friendly way to keep your nails looking well groomed,” she explains. “I don’t think it’s old-fashioned per se — I love [regular] polish for an easy manicure that I can change without any hassle. It’s perfect for people who are indecisive like me.”

Stark maintains that OG polish holds a “well-needed space in the beauty community” and is essential for those who find painting their own nails a therapeutic and mindful exercise. OG polish does play an important role here, considering that trying to apply gels at home without proper training can be dangerous and even prompt an allergic reaction. This is because your body can form a hypersensitivity to methacrylate monomers (HEMA), which aren’t found in OG polishes.

Thanks to the increase in awareness surrounding these skin sensitivities and allergic reactions to gel nail polishes, Personnaz says she’s seen a resurgence in interest among clients who want “natural” nail polishes. More brands are focusing on “free-from” formulas, too, which she says creates a niche appeal for OG polish. To that end, Personnaz expects to soon see a “rebirth” of OG polishes: “Some may return to traditional polish for a more natural aesthetic, a less damaging routine, or less exposure to UV [light].”

The case for regular nail polish doesn’t end there. Podiatrist Dina Gohil of DG Podiatrist says she would always rather her clients use regular polishes over gels on their toes. While she understands the appeal of gel pedicures, she says they can cause damage to the nails during the removal process, which typically involves soaking nails in acetone and then scraping off the gel. “These actions can dehydrate and thin the nail layers, leading to peeling, splitting and weakening over time,” says Gohil.

Regular polish, on the other hand, is easily removed gently with acetone-free formulas that reduce the likelihood of dryness and brittleness. This, explains Gohil, gives your nails a break between applications, which is better for nail strength. OG polish also doesn’t require any UV light curing, which Gohil explains is associated with risks of premature skin aging and skin damage. She also notes that gels can worsen fungus-based toenail conditions. This is because the gel can trap moisture and bacteria.

Religion also plays a part in the enduring popularity of OG nail polish. Some Muslims believe that their prayers may not count if they wear nail polish because water can’t reach the nail during pre-prayer ablutions. Because of this, many Muslim women opt for OG polish during their period, when they’re unable to pray. In this scenario, OG polish is much easier to apply, remove and change during such a short window of time. Some nail polish brands like Inglot and Orly offer “breathable” or “halal” formulas that claim to let water pass through to the nail bed, though the permissibility of these polishes in Islam is debated.

Is gel polish better than regular nail polish?

With all of this in mind, it’s hard to say that gel is better than OG polish — but gels do have their advantages. They are convenient for clients, last well and don’t chip as easily, says Gohil. What’s more, we want polish to last longer without taking up too much of our time, she adds. Gel polishes — in particular, builder gel formulas — are also great for those who bite and pick their nails as they make it harder to do so. They can also help to grow your nails when applied (and removed and reapplied) regularly by a professional.

Then we have to consider the rise in popularity of nail art. Gone are the days of nothing snazzy but a sparkly top coat on your ring finger. Nowadays, nail art is…well…art, using different textures, finishes, tools and formulas. As Korean and Japanese styles make their way west, 3D nail art designs are also beginning to emerge, and such complex creations are much easier and quicker to achieve with gel polishes over regular polishes. You don’t have to wait for them to air-dry between coats and you can add multiple colors and strokes after an all-but-instant flash of a lamp. 

Is regular nail polish dead?

Though anecdotal evidence (and my own observations of Londoners during rush hour) might suggest that OG polish is on its way out, the experts — and statistics — say otherwise. “We see consumers looking more and more for the best of both worlds when it comes to the health of their nails, long-lasting color and convenience of application,” explains Personnaz. With the invention of hardworking hybrid products like Manucurist’s Green Flash LED polish (which cures quickly but can be removed just like regular polish to avoid trauma to your nails) or Drying Drops (which take away the annoyance of long drying times), formulas that work just like OG polishes are looking more attractive than ever.

As Personnaz suggests, it’s not so much about OG polishes dying out. Instead it’s about them getting a rebrand. They’re upgrading and evolving with the times to offer us more without compromise. Think of it as the “skinification” of nail polish. Already we’re seeing more formulas forgo harsh ingredients in favor of nail-strengthening and nail health-boosting additions like plant oils and amino acids. Combined with longer-lasting formulas and quicker drying times, this is sure to put regular polishes back on the proverbial map.

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This article was originally published on refinery29.com.