I take a deep breath, open the door and let the fumes hit me. Judging by my apprehension, you’d think I was headed to a job interview or about to tell my partner that we should go on a break. But it’s nothing like that. Rather, I’ve just stepped inside my local nail salon for my first manicure in over a year. 

Dramatic? Perhaps; this is hardly a major problem. But I’d been MIA for a reason: Complaining about a very painful manicure (cuticle nippers and heat spikes are no joke) left me so red-faced that I vowed never to return. Social anxiety aside, I find it difficult to navigate the conveyor belt that is the nail salon and all of its so-called politics. It seems I’m not the only one. 

A quick Google search will serve up countless TikTok videos and entire Reddit threads dedicated to how to behave at the nail salon: whether it’s okay to initiate a conversation with your manicurist or how much is appropriate to tip at the end of your appointment, for example. Is it rude to be on the phone? Can I bring my dog? Wait, does my nail tech secretly hate me?

With costs rising, getting your nails done is arguably one of the very few affordable luxuries. But one thing is clear: Plenty of us aren’t as well versed in appropriate salon etiquette as we like to think. With that in mind, I asked professional nail technicians for their tips. What I learned will be invaluable for my upcoming salon trips (and hopefully yours, too).

If you don’t like the color or shape of your nails, can you ask for a redo? When is an appropriate time to say something — and how?

Luxury manicurist Lois Elias says that the perfect manicure is a joint effort. “A good manicurist will manage your expectations, ask for feedback at each stage of the manicure and create a non-hostile environment where you feel comfortable to speak up,” she says. But it’s equally important to say something if you’re not happy.

To avoid tension, session manicurist Ami Streets advises doing a little research pre-appointment to narrow down your shape, color and polish preferences. Bringing inspiration pictures is also helpful. “Most manicurists and salons have swatches to try beforehand and are happy to paint one or two nails to help you select your perfect shade,” she says. 

As for a redo? Metta Francis, London-based mobile manicurist and founder of Nails by Mets, says that it would be unfair to expect to start the entire manicure from scratch. “If you’re going for a UV/LED cured product such as gel polish or builder gel, please don’t let the product cure before you say something,” asks Francis. “It will be much harder and longer to remove. If the manicurist hasn’t asked if you’re happy with the nail shape or color, simply ask, ‘Can I just check the color, please?’”

Regarding shape, Streets stresses that a total change won’t always be possible beyond a certain point, especially if it’s a drastic difference such as stiletto to square nails. Like Francis, she advises checking the first few nails for length and shape so that any adjustments can be made as soon as possible. 

It also goes without saying that asking to switch from regular polish to gel during your appointment or requesting last-minute nail art is unreasonable. Above all, Elias stresses being considerate of your manicurist’s busy schedule, as switching things up or fixing issues late in an appointment may push back the next client. 

Is it rude not to have a conversation with your manicurist? 

It’s a mixed bag but Elias always takes her client’s lead. “For some, a nail appointment is a rare moment of self-care and they just want zen,” she says. Like a handful of hair salons recently, Elias has noticed a growing number of manicurists offering ‘silent appointments’ — a service where you can sit out the general chit-chat. 

Asking your nail tech if they mind you putting your earphones in to listen to music or a podcast is one way to avoid conversation when you’re feeling drained, suggests Francis, but says that politely explaining that you’d prefer a quiet service is equally understandable. A good manicurist will get it (and might even feel the exact same after a long day of clients). If you are happy to engage in small talk, Streets suggests preparing some neutral topics (holidays, TV) or asking for recommendations of nail designs, colors or products to kickstart the conversation.

When it comes to chatter, one thing that most nail artists agree on is staying off your phone (unless it’s an emergency). “This can be a recipe for disaster for intricate nail art and cuticle nipping, especially if you’re moving around or getting distracted,” says Elias. Staying put during cuticle work is particularly important to avoid painful cuts that could lead to infections. Touching things like your phone can also attract dust and fluff, says Elias: “Every manicurist’s nemesis.” 

Lastly, considering that you’re in close proximity to your nail technician, always ask to reschedule if you have a cold to avoid spreading it around.  

Should you always speak up if you’re in pain? 

“Manicures should never hurt,” says Elias. While heat spikes (an intense blast of heat that sometimes occurs when nails are cured under UV light) can be uncomfortable, Elias says that this can be resolved easily by using slow-curing lamps or applying thinner layers of polish — so always (politely) speak up. 

Then there’s cuticle work, which involves sharp tools and often nail drills. “If you’re nervous or concerned about any stage of your manicure such as cuticle work — or even adverse reactions pre-gel manicure — I’d always suggest mentioning it to your technician before your treatment,” advises Streets. “A professional manicurist will have been properly trained and able to explain the process to you or suggest a different method of manicure that may be more suitable.”

Divulging a history of skin allergies or sensitivities is also a must, says Streets, so that your manicurist is fully informed. “Even requesting a product patch test can be a great idea to help minimize the risk of any reactions,” she says.

Should you always tip your manicurist? 

The relaxing benefits of a manicure are indisputable but there’s often an elephant in the room: How much should you tip at the end?

Julie Kandalec, a New York-based celebrity manicurist and educator, says that a 20% tip is usually expected in nail salons, but that things are changing. “More and more nail professionals are now including that 20% in the service and adopting a no-tipping policy,” she says. “This is something I’ll be adopting myself in the new year. It helps the client feel like it’s one less place to tip — and they are really appreciating it.”

Not everyone is in a position to tip generously, so leaving a positive review is another way to show your support.

What are some tips for socially anxious people navigating the nail salon experience?

Going to a new nail salon — or even returning to an old haunt — can be nerve-wracking. “Select a salon (or an at-home-based tech in close proximity) with excellent reviews for an experience that meets your expectations,” says Streets. She adds that if booking in person or talking on the phone feels daunting, consider making an appointment through an app. Booking during off-peak hours is also a good idea. “Mid-mornings on weekdays are much quieter times,” says Streets. 

If the salon environment makes you anxious, Francis recommends a mobile nail service in the comfort of your own home. Additionally, Elias suggests messaging your chosen salon or nail technician beforehand with any concerns or requests (Can I bring my child/dog/hamster?). “Having these questions answered prior will help put you at ease during the appointment,” she says. 

Ultimately, all experts advise knowing what you want. “It’s helpful to provide inspiration pictures and have a clear idea of your manicure,” says Juanita Huber-Millet, founder and chief creative officer at Townhouse, which has a new location in Beverly Hills.

How can you build up more of a rapport with your manicurist?

Booking your next appointment well in advance keeps you on a consistent schedule, which manicurists appreciate, says Elias. Huber-Millet and Francis also suggest booking with the same artist to help create a sense of trust and familiarity. “This allows you to enjoy a truly personal service,” says Huber-Millet. 

Following aftercare advice like using cuticle oil regularly, not picking off your gels, or wearing gloves when cleaning and [doing the dishes], is also important, Elias adds. “This keeps nails healthy and makes the manicure process easier for both parties.”

Finally, being positive and appreciative goes a long way, says Streets, which means no trauma dumping. “A pleasant atmosphere and friendly interaction will help develop a long-lasting, professional relationship over time,” she says.

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This article was originally published on refinery29.com.

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